Climbing in Arapiles (Part I) - High stakes, high reward

First on the list was repeating a notoriously scary climb I did last year called “Telemachus Direct” (24). This climb for me is the perfect embodiment of bold trad climbing. It begins as a steep and physically demanding crack system that is well protected but leaves your forearms quite pumped as you approach the crux. From a semi-decent stance, you can reach high and protect the crux sequence with two small but bomber cams. From this position, you shake out the fatigue and enter the stretched-out and powerful crux sequence, ascending above your protection and catching a series of small edges. The feet cut and regain uncomfortably high chips in the rock face as you move further and further above your last piece of gear.

Eventually, you are standing on top of the small edges and the angle of the wall decreases into a smooth, slippery slab that extends for about 4 meters. Here, there is an option for placing a tiny wire in a very shallow crack off to the left somewhere… I skip this delicate and arguably pointless side quest as the next section of smeary slab climbing pushes you another 4 meters up and right. This is where the route takes on its second phase of demanding style. The climbing is delicate but easy, however a misplaced or nervous foot placement could mean punting off this precarious position and taking a HUGE fall on to the small cam below the crux sequence. You would not hit the ground from up here but the resulting pendulum of so much unchecked rope would swing you violently into the blocky undercut wall below. Death is unlikely but you would probably not be walking away from this one… After the slab, you get a small cam buried in a hole around the corner from where you really want it to be… The protection is not ideal, but would probably hold the fall… Next you travers hard left onto an overhanging section of steep juggy holds which offer little protection. Once again, a good cam could be placed under the first flake of the upper section but the prospect of falling on this is pretty terrifying to me. The piece would hold but it is probable that the rock would explode from the outward force of the cam. I once again opt for not wasting time placing questionable gear. I push all negative thoughts to the back of my mind, remain focused, and send it to the top. All’s well that ends well. I kept my cool, pushed the fear and doubt out of my mind and climbed well to finish the route safely. This is a good benchmark for me to know that I am climbing well and in good mental shape as well as physical conditioning. Trad climbing gives me so much and reveals many things about the mind. It teaches us efficient problem solving and stress management. It also invites us to venture close to the edge, whilst maintaining a level of risk management. Once you attain adequate skills and acquire all the gear to protect yourself – you have total control over your adventure. The climb becomes as safe or as dangerous as you like. When climbing dangerous routes like Telemachus (link) – where protection is sparse – a strong mental fortitude and b elief in your abilities are needed to successfully do the climb without it becoming an adrenaline-fuelled nightmare! The satisfaction of executing the moves and remaining perfectly calm and in control on this kind of route is well worth the risk and ultimately – why I love climbing. Actually, this is why I love climbing – crisp mornings, good friends and Mont jackets.