Climbing in Arapiles (Part II) - Trad is Rad

Written by Tim Desmond

Climbers come to Arapiles from all over the world to learn the ways of traditional climbing. Many of my international friends learned how to place gear at Araps and each year I continue to meet people from all over the globe who have come to test their might and concur their fear at the sacred crystal mountain.

This year my main climbing partner was Åslaug – a strong sport climber from Wollongong eager to gain new skills and explore another area of climbing.

Åslaug staying warm in her Icicle Jacket

I first took Åslaug up a couple of easy classic multi-pitches which generally blows people’s minds as a first trad climbing experience. She was completely underwhelmed by this however, as the exposure failed to phase her and the climbing was far too easy. I liked her attitude and saw that she had a strong head for trad climbing. This started a month-long exercise of sandbagging her onto harder and harder climbs through rain, hail and often nighttime… She really embraced this baptism by fire and lead the notorious “Thundercrack” (grade 20) at the end of her trip.

Åslaug on her first ever trad lead – “Skink” grade 18.

Trad climbing to me is all about having the skills and confidence to climb anything, in all possible conditions. This could mean a nice jaunt up a grade 10 on a sunny day with non-climber friends, or battling through exhaustion and fear on a scary aid climb halfway up El Capitan in the middle of the night… its all about having the tools to make for the best possible adventure.