Recently the BlocHaus Canberra route setting team grabbed a pair of La Sportiva Theory climbing shoes to test out when setting in the gym, and the verdicts are in!
I love delicate careful footwork and the Theory is perfect for threading across slabs and flying up volumes. They are precise and sensitive shoes that moulded well to my feet without loss of form in the months since I got them, despite generally climbing/setting in them 5 times a week. I chose to get a women's pair several sizes down so as to ensure the longevity of the heel fit, and although uncomfortable at first they now feel like dancing slippers.
The Theorys are a really excellent pair of shoes that provides peerless performance in the indoor world of climbing, especially the modern bouldering style. I really appreciate the extra rubber on the toe as it made more particular toe hooking possible and the heel is similarly versatile and sticky. Their friction and subtlety on volumes feels like a new world to me. This is a trait in keeping with their predilection towards performance and comp climbing, and its increasing use of volumes.
I think though that in the future I will either; only use the next pair of Theorys I get for setting, or get Skwamas as a more durable shoe. Recently the rubber has worn down enough for the top section of the sole to be caught on a toe hook/drag and peeled down. They are a thin shoe so my frequency of use is the likely cause of their demise.
Lastly and least importantly, they look like what they are, elegant weapons for careful feet. Not flashy but still bold.
After trying the La Sportiva Solution and the Skwama, I think I have found my new favourite shoe. I’ve found the Theory to be my new gym shoe (alongside my slipper alternative - the Cobra Eco), the Theory provides a better rubber design in my opinion than the Skwama, especially around the toe cap, (which I have found peels after a little bit), to allow myself to perform more comfortable toe-hooks.
For my first pair, I went for a more comfortable fit (closer to my street shoe size) and it has been a great choice to provide the comfort I need whilst maintaining the necessary sensitivity for setting climbs that require a lot of technical or precise footwork.
I’ve switched to enjoying the single velcro design better as I found that it helps with the on/off capabilities, tension regulation, and is a lot more durable than the Solution's lace straps. On top of everything, because it definitely does improve performance, it is also a very visually appealing shoe. I found that the inside will stain your foot a little bit the first few times but I think that is a pretty regular occurrence with many climbing shoes.
As a largely dynamic climber, I look for maximum comfort in shoes.
The Theory's provide both a snug and comfortable fit while still being aggressive and good for small sharp edges and slab!
These shoes are also the best heels I've felt in the La Sportiva range, being lower profile so there's no unnecessary room in the back keeping you in on all those tricky heel hook problems.
With all these qualities, they're the ideal all-round shoe whether you're crushing in a climbing gym, or sending on real rocks.
I use my Theory’s both for route setting and for my personal training. They’re really comfortable yet allow for great precision on different terrains.
The rubber wraps around your toes which makes it great for toe hooks. The structure of the shoe also provides great stability when doing heel hooks.
I was so happy with my first session wearing them that I immediately bought a second pair!
Overall a great shoe which I highly recommend!
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